Best of BALIK PULAU

Mentioned Penang and thoughts of hawker food, heritage buildings and sandy beaches come to mind. However, there is another part of the island that offers refreshing country air, charming mosques, soothing sight of padi fields and seafood caught fresh from the seas, gutted and placed of the brazier, and not to mentioned delicious durian. Indeed, Balik Pulau is all these and much more! Its name is bridged from 'di sebalik pulau' meaning 'on the other side of the island.'

A Little Bit of History
According to historical records, the early Malay settlers on Penang island were refugees from kedah who were fleeing from Siamese invaders. They made their homes in Bukit Dumbar and Bayan Lepas. later, in 1786, when the Chakri Dynasty came to power in then Siam and expanded the Kingdom, there was more migration of Malays and Thai Muslims from Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat, Perlis and Kedah to Balik Pulau. This scenic area, surrounded by hills, was a perfect place to escape persecution from their enemies. Today , manu facmilies in Balik Pulau trace their ancestral roots from Southern Thailand.

Why Go
The district of Balik Pulau provides a glimpse of slow-paced rural life that is disappearing due to development. The drive along the winding road there offers a fantastic view of the coastline and the surrounding off-shore island.

When you reach Balik Pulau , head for the picturesque fishing villages with interesting cottage industries. Several have interesting origins of their names. For example, teluk Kumbar was named after a palm called pokok kumbar, kampung Pondoh Upeh was so named because earlier settlers built their huts with the leaves of the upeh pinang and Kampong Sungai Burung was founded on the mouth of a river with plenty of birds.

What to do
Balik Pulau is arguably the best place in penang to see beautiful mosque. Just outside the town is a 100 year old colonial misque that features an onion-shaped dome. Further a head, the magnificent Masjid Daerah Balik Pulau symbolises the glory of Islam on the Island. Featuring marble floor inside, its architecture was inspired by Middle East design elements. Five kilometres further ahead, the modern Masjid Jamek Simpang Empat is an attention-grabber, with its steel dome decorated with elegant geometric patterns. In Teluk Kumbar, there's Masjid Ridwaniah, its white minaret adorned with fretwork complemented by similar designs in its compound walls.

From Teluk Kumbar, proceed to Kampong Pulau Betong. As you approach the village after passing through picturesque padi fields backed by verdant hills, its elegant mosque with four minarets come into view. Swaying coconut trees add a distinct charm to this place of worship. Balik Pulau is famous for belacan! The village of Gertak Sanggul, where visitor can see how the products is made.
First, shrims are drained of water, rubbed with salt and allowed to dry in the sun. The fermented shrimps are compacted and passed through a grinder. The resulting paste is then compacted again, packed in bags and allowed to ferment further. Then the semi-hard pieces are cut into blocks and packed.

What to Eat
Excellent Malay food is served at dataran Tuah, opposite the Komplek Balik Pulau which houses a bank and a few other offices. The Balik Pulau Market on Jalan Besar offers delicious chee cheong fun, lam mee and loh bak. There is also a popular laksa stall outside the market. However, the more exciting makan places are located in the nearby villages.
In the evening, the focal point in Teluk Kumbar is Medan selera Kg nelayan. Here, sea-facing stalls do a roaring business serving tomyam seafood, ikan bakar and other Malay delicacies. IN Gertak Sanggul, Chinese fare is served at jumbo Seafood Village. At the lookout point on a cliff just five kilometres from Balik Pulau town, there are also two stalls and a restaurant located on a hillock.
With 2000 hectares of durian orchands, Balik Pulau is a durian connoisseur's paradise. Along the way from Bayan Lepas, a popular stopover is the Durian Chap Kaki, where customers can sit on chairs at tables to tuck into the 'King of fruits'. Taps are available for washing their hands. Wei, the co-owner of the sttall and plantation, says there are several duria varieties available - those with a heady fragrance, a bitter-sweet taste, sweet and gooey flesh, and another variety with little fibre. The spaces have unique names like Hor Loh, Lipan, green Skin, D2, D15, D95 and Kun Poh. Penangites and those from other places are known to throng Balik Pulau for the perfect durian.

What to Buy
The Malay women of Balik Pulau are very enterprising. They operate flourishing cottage industries.
Kuih Bahulu, Jeruk Buah-Buahan and etc.

Getting There
Travel along jalan batu Feringghi towards Jalan Teluk Bahang and head southward to Balik Pulau or go to jalan Air Hitam and proceed to either relau or Bayan baru

Where To Stay
Simple accommodation is available at Kamar Bestari, located at Tman pondok Upeh
Details: Tel : 04-8661670

Best Time to Go
Any time is a good time to visit Balik Pulau but for durians, the best periods are from April till June and November till ZJanuary.