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Tuesday, December 19, 2006

Best of Long House Sarawak

Nanga Nungunis an Iban settlement in the interior of Sarawak, accessible from Sibu. Originally, there were only three longhouses but during the Emergency between 1948 and 1960, the Fedral Government grouped the Ibans together to prevent them from trading food for protection with the Communist.

Today , nanga Nungun comprises 15 modern longhouses with concrete bases and cement walls. The Ibans stay in these communal longhouses that take on the names of the headmen. For example, Jabu would be the headman of the longhaouse Rumah Jabu or Jabu House. And you may expect everyone in a longhouse to be related to each other.

The Ibans lead relatively simple lives. they gather food from the jungle, fish and plant their own vegetables. try holding a conversation with the Ibans and you will find them a warm people. Greet them in their own languange with Nama brita Nuan or How Are You?.

Older men prefer to be addressed as bapa and older women ibu. The elderly folks are illiterate and can only speak the Iban languange. But those aged between 30 and 50 would have had primary education and speak Iban and Bahasa Malaysia. Today the younger ones speak Iban, Bahasa Malaysia and some English . A few have had tertiary education too.

WHY GO
For a taste of what life's like in a simple Iban community. But its not backward living. Some longhaouse are equipped with Astro. However, newspapert are scarce.

WHAT TO DO
Go fo a boat ride on the rejang River, its like taking an eco-tour of the longest river in Malaysia. Take time to go for a swim an enjoy the serene environment. Modern Ibans are generally friendly people. They would talk to you on the verandah and even serve you tea and crackers. They have a fondness for Jacob's Crackers. But before you enter a longhouse, visit the penghulu or headman of the community first.

WHERE TO SHOP
Sundray shops sell a range of groceries or you can take a boat ride to Song to buy meat. You can also buy unique patterned mats, hats and bags at affordable prices.

WHERE TO STAY
In the longhouse but get permission first. Usually guest are expected to bring food for themselves and the host family in exchange for accommodation.

WHERE TO EAT
At the headman's home or at any of the Iban homes. There are no restaurant and all foods is shared.
During the twoo weeks annual rice harvest festival or Gawai Dayak beginning June 1, guest can help themselves to free flow or food served on the verandah og longhouse - fro free.

WHEN TO GO
If you dont like the heat during the dry season, it is best to go between december and June

GETTING THERE
Catch a flight to Sibu. Then take a taxi to the Sibu jatty. Catch the next speedboat to nanga Ngemah and hop on to a four-wheel drive to Nanga Nungun

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